Fritto Misto, a casual neighborhood restaurant in Santa Monica, Calif. is, at the same time, hugely popular and an unknown gem.
This Italian eatery located at 601 Colorado Ave. in central Santa Monica not far from Lincoln Blvd. is good enough to have long ago morphed into a chain, if only a tasteful mini-chain with a separate location in Beverly Hills, a la Newsroom Cafe or Ivy. And legend has it (Fritto Misto is popular enough among its loyal followers to be the stuff of legend) that its owners have for years been approached with offers to expand it, an offer they have consistently turned down, in favor of maintaining a single superb, out-of-the-way, dining spot.
Far from Santa Monica's restaurant hubs like the Third Street Promenade, Main Street or Ocean Ave., Fritto Misto draws many customers from the immediate neighborhood, but it keeps them long after they have moved away. Most people who dine once at Fritto Misto come back. It features a rich assortment of pasta dishes that are so well prepared that even people like me who don't really like pasta, end up devouring it; a couple basic desserts including flourless chocolate cake and lemon bars, which have have been staples of the menu for at least 10 years; and an absolutely to-die-for "greens and Gorgonzola" salad that is fresh, far too tasty to be "just" a salad, and large enough and hearty enough that, depending on your hunger level, may be more than enough to make a meal out of.
The space is simple and happy, the service quite friendly and the wait, if you get there much after 6 p.m., is often long. But since they let you drink wine and mill about out front, sitting if you wish, in the plastic patio chairs scattered around the sidewalk in the front, it's usually a pleasant wait, in the company of other people who are not looking for a place that is "in," but are just returning to a place that they love -- and probably hope no one else finds out about.